Electric Dirt Bikes Getting Cheaper and Better? Yozma IN 10
So, we just got ourselves a brand new pit bike, and this one is supposedly
even cheaper than the Tuttio. First impressions, it is a very good
looking bike. Like, check out these plastics. Looks closer to an RTR than it does
a Tuttio, which is crazy for 1,300 bucks. Here’s everything that came in the package.
Starting with the front wheel. This is a 14-in wheel with a knobby tire on there. Size is 60 114.
Of course, it came with a pit bike style rotor. Right side peg looks similar to what you
would see on an ETM RTR. Handlebar with a decent rise on there. This is a bar pad. Two
zip ties to secure this onto the handlebar. Handlebar mounts. Surron style grip. Two keys.
Front fender. Front number plate. Some vinyl numbers. Comment below what number you think I
should put on this bike. LED headlight. Here’s what the connector looks like. And the
charger. This is a 5 amp charger. 54.6. 6 volt since this is a 48V battery. My
bike came with the battery installed on there. I saw a few of the earlier reviewers
having it come separately from the bike. So, I’m glad that it all comes together now. Just
simplifies things. What I really like so far is the fact that this bike comes with a Surron style
throttle. Seems like they really paid attention to the market. A lot of studio owners would replace
the original throttle that came with their bike with a Surron style throttle. I think that’s
around 50 60 bucks. This is what a stock Tuttio Soleil throttle looks like. So yeah, that’s one
less thing that you have to upgrade on this bike. As you can see, these are not mountain bike
style brakes. It’s actually a pit bike brake that uses DOT fluid, and it’s mounted
on a sliding caliper bracket. Actually, you know what? It’s probably a good
idea to plug the headlight in. Now, these two posts at the bottom of the number
plate go into these two holes on top of the front fender. Brake hose goes in this hook.
Just press the number plate into the fender. And you’re going to mount the headlight
bracket on top of the number plate bracket. And here’s a closer look at
how everything is mounted. Okay, I think this order makes a lot more sense.
Display, brake lever, and then the light switch. The longer wheel spacer goes on
the brake caliper side and then the shorter one goes on the other. Just
adding a little bit of multi-purpose grease on the center of the front axle
just to reduce any friction up front. There it is, guys. This is the IN10 by Yozma.
This is their 48V 2600W electric dirt bike that’s supposed to compete with the entry-level category.
I’m going to hook this thing up to the charger for a few hours, then we’ll go over all the features
and take this thing out for the first time. If you want to get more information on the Yozma
IN 10, I’ll have a link to their website in the description below. You can also get yourself 5%
off this bike by using discount code PATOUTDOORS. Here it is all charged and ready to go. But before
we take this thing out, I do want to look over the features and do a little bit of poking around. So,
like the other pit bikes in this price category, it’s got a 14-in front wheel, 12-in rear, 2.5
in tire up front, 3-in rear. It’s got a 60 to 420 rear sprocket, 420 chain, kind of similar to
a Tuttio, and it appears to have the same exact bolt pattern. So, it’s giving me ideas for
future modifications. I really like how the plastics look on this, though, I’m not sure how
scratch resistant this satin finish is going to be longterm. It’s got a nitrogen filled rear shock,
hydraulic front fork. The controller is mounted right on the front side of the frame. appears to
be a fardriver. Skid plate at the bottom seems to be made out of some really thick plastic.
Headlight looks really bright, but we’ll see how the pattern looks at night. The display is
really bright and colorful. might look a little bit funky with my phone camera, but what’s funny
about this bike is when you turn it on initially, it says pedal assist or PAS0 and throttle doesn’t
work, which is kind of similar to like some class 2, class 3 ebikes, but there are no pedals on
this thing. So, what are they expecting you to do? For the throttle to work, you just switch to
mode one. There are three different power levels. Three is going to be the fastest, one is going to
be the slowest. I’m gonna look into the controller settings to see if I can just completely get rid
of mode zero since it doesn’t seem to really make sense to me. Turn the headlight on and off. Just
a switch over here. Right brake lever is for the front. Left brake lever is for the rear. It’s set
up like the bigger emotos to access the battery. You actually have to use the key, but you just
turn clockwise. Then it unlatches this lock on the back. You just swing up. And now we have access to
the 48V 23 amp hour battery. So this is a little bigger than the studio. I believe the sole has a
21 amp hour battery. Same thing with the Valtinsu EM5 which is a pretty similar looking bike, but it
doesn’t come with a headlight and has like orange wheels and smaller battery. I believe the battery
on this thing is very similar as far as dimensions to the studio battery. So, I might experiment
with some aftermarket higher voltage options on this in the very near future, but the factory
battery has a discharge current of 60 amps. So, that is a little bit lower than I thought
it would. The listing mentioned a sinewave controller with an 80 amp current limit. Let’s
actually pull this battery out and do some poking around. Kind of just want to get a better idea
of the components on this bike. But from what I’m seeing so far, it seems like the battery
can both be a strong point and a weak point. It is a little bit larger than the batteries
that come on other bikes in this price range, which means this should have a little bit more
range. Yozma’s claiming 53 miles per charge, but for a battery this size, I think a more
realistic expectation would be something like 25 mi, unless you’re cruising at like 10 mph on
mode one. And with a max power output of 60 amps, I don’t really think you can tune the stock
controller past a little over 2,800 watts. So, the battery does seem to be the limiting factor
as far as making power with the stock components. Oh, one thing I forgot to mention is you
could charge the battery off the bike or on the bike. When this connectors on
the battery, there’s this other XT60 connector that’s going to a charge port
on the right side of the frame. Actually, now that we have the battery out, the size looks
completely different than I thought it would be. So, this is a little over 10 in tall, 7 in wide,
and a little over 5 and 1/4 thick. So, 10 by 7 by 5 and 1/4. I kind of want to pull all this apart
and get a closer look at the controller to see if it’s similar to this other one that I have laying
around, but I want to get to riding soon. So, we’re just going to save that for another
day. Though, the dimensions and the stamping, at least from the bottom side, look identical.
This is meant for an encoder motor, though. I’m really hoping that this bike came with a hall
sensor one because that means I will have a lot more options to just swap this controller out and
crank the power on the motor. Speaking of which, let’s take these covers off and get a closer look
at the motor. I think these covers just pop off. Yeah, there’s just three tabs on the back
side and some rubber grommets on the frame. But here’s a closer look at the motor that’s
in there. So, from the factory comes with an 11 to front sprocket. Let’s look at the motor
from the other side to see if there’s any sort of stampings. YB48V50. Doesn’t really look
like any motor I’ve seen in the past. Wonder if there’s a QS motor that’s going to be a
direct swap with this. I was talking with Michael Wright on Instagram who has a Valtinsu
and he mentioned I could potentially fit a QS120 motor on this bike and I think is working on
a direct replacement as well. But before we get carried away with potential upgrades
in the future, let’s put this bike pack back together and at least ride it for the
first time without any sort of modifications. Damn. I was really hoping that the
76V electro battery that I have laying around can fit in one of these bikes. H you know what? Could I work with a
surround battery? seems to have decent spacing all around. We’re definitely
gonna have to cut a section of the seat. Let me know if this is a future
project you guys would like to see. Well, the sun’s starting to come up, so
we’ll test out the headlight on another day. Let’s test out the top speed in the different
modes. So mode one looks like it tops off at 21 22 milesPH and then on mode two definitely
starts picking up speed quite a bit looking like 31.4 milesPH. You know what? Before we test
out mode three, let’s see if the speedometer is even accurate. Oh shoot. I completely forgot to
check the tire pressure. The rear is definitely super low. Let’s head back to the house and take
care of that real quick. Then we’ll go back out. Yeah, this thing’s pretty fun. My bad,
guys. Still human. still make mistakes. I was just too excited to take this thing out.
Completely forgot. Man, the rear tire was at like 8 PSI. Well, the front was already
at 28. Okay, that feels a lot better now. All right, looks like the top
speed with a 180 lb adult rider is 34 MPH. I could see this going 40
mph if the rider was maybe like 120, 130 lb. But let’s be real here. I’m definitely
not the only adult that’s going to buy this. Oh, dang. Sprinklers are out. Rides really smooth considering
it has knobby tires on there. Suspension’s pretty comfortable on the street. The brakes feel really solid already. Haven’t even
bedded them in yet. How could you beat this for 1,300 bucks? Electric dirt bikes, I feel like,
have come such a long way. Just two years ago, the thing to do would be to purchase a
Razor MX500 or MX650 and then spend like $800 modding it, so it’ll go 40 mph. But after
you do all that, you’ll still have cable brakes and spring suspension. Nowadays, you
can just buy a bike like this. You’d already have a larger wheel set, more power,
hydraulic suspension, and hydraulic brakes. Doesn’t handle too bad off-road either. like taking this out of the box and being
able to go this fast and having this much fun. I am excited to start modifying this
thing though and cranking up the voltage, changing the controller settings and seeing what
we can really do with this longterm. I think this is an insane value compared to building up a
Razor from scratch. Certainly saves a lot of time and effort. This is a lot of bike for $1,300.
So, that is the pre-release price. I’m not sure what the price is going to be after September.
Hopefully, it’s still under $1,500. Either way, you could still get 5% off using discount code Pat
outdoors. If you guys enjoyed today’s video, do me a favor and hit that like button. And if you like
this kind of content, want to keep up with some of my projects such as the IN10, my Studio, my Razor,
my RTR. Make sure you subscribe to this channel and turn your bell notification on. But this is
going to be it for today. Thank you for watching. Hey, hey, hey.
Y’all know how much I love my electric pit bikes.. We just got another one! The Yozma IN 10 is the newest (affordable) electric dirt bike on the market. Has a brushless 2600W motor, tunable speed controller, full suspension, 14″ front and 12″ rear wheelset with knobby tires, 23AH Lithium battery pack.. What more can you ask for at an entry-level price range? Today we’ll be putting this bike together, reviewing all the components, taking it out for an initial ride, and going over possibilities for modifications.
YOZMA IN 10 Electric Dirt Bike: https://www.yozmasport.com/?ref=PATOUTDOORS
5% Discount Code: PATOUTDOORS
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